Pattern Block Blanket Crochet Pattern

Remember the pattern blocks from elementary school? Let’s make a blanket with them! Play around with colors and shapes to make different designs. You can purchase an inexpensive PDF from my Ravelry store here, which contains instructions for six sizes. The instructions for size 1 are provided here for free.

Skill Level:
Easy

Materials:
• E-4 (3.5 mm) hook
• DK weight yarn in 6 colors and some extra for joining the shapes (see chart below for amounts)

Gauge:
20 dc x 10 rows to 4” (10 cm)
* Gauge is not critical, but a different gauge will affect the finished size.

Size:
Diameter of completed size 1: 19” (48 cm)
Other sizes available on the PDF are 2: 25” (64 cm); 3: 31.5” (80 cm); 4: 38” (96 cm); 5: 44” (112 cm); 6: 50” (128 cm)

Yarn Amounts:
See below for approximate yardage of each color needed.

	1: 19” (48 cm)	2: 25” (64 cm)	3: 31.5” (80 cm)	4: 38” (96 cm)	5: 44” (112 cm)	6: 50” (128 cm)
Yellow	0.4 oz (11 g) 24 yd (22 m)	0.6 oz (17 g) 37 yd (34 m)	1 oz (28 g) 61 yd (56 m)	1.4 oz (40 g) 87 yd (80 m)	1.9 oz (54 g) 118 yd (108 m)	2.4 oz (68 g) 149 yd (136 m)
Orange	1.8 oz (51 g) 112 yd (102 m)	2.9 oz (82 g) 179 yd (164 m)	4.3 oz (122 g) 267 yd (244 m)	6 oz (170 g) 372 yd (340 m)	8 oz (227 g) 497 yd (454 m)	10.3 oz (292 g) 639 yd (584 m)
Beige	2.4 oz (68 g) 149 yd (136 m)	3.7 oz (105 g) 230 yd (210 m)	5.3 oz (150 g) 328 yd (300 m)	7.2 oz (204 g) 446 yd (408 m)	9.4 oz (266 g) 582 yd (532 m)	11.9 oz (337 g) 737 yd (674 m)
Blue	0.9 oz (26 g) 57 yd (52 m)	1.5 oz (43 g) 94 yd (86 m)	5.2 oz (62 g) 136 yd (124 m)	3.1 oz (88 g) 182 yd (176 m)	4.1 oz (116 g) 254 yd (232 m)	5.2 oz (147 g) 322 yd (294 m)
Green	1 oz (28 g) 61 yd (56 m)	1.6 oz (45 g) 98 yd (90 m)	2.4 oz (68 g) 149 yd (136 m)	3.3 oz (94 g) 206 yd (188 m)	4.3 oz (122 g) 267 yd (244 m)	5.5 oz (156 g) 341 yd (312 m)
Red	1.2 oz (35 g) 77 yd (70 m)	2.1 oz (60 g) 131 yd (120 m)	3.1 oz (88 g) 182 yd (176 m)	4.4 oz (125 g) 273 yd (250 m)	5.9 oz (167 g) 354 yd (334 m)	7.6 oz (215 g) 470 yd (430 m)
Gray	0.7 oz (20 g) 44 yd (40 m)	0.9 oz (26 g) 57 yd (52 m)	1.1 oz (31 g) 68 yd (62 m)	1.3 oz (37 g) 81 m (74 m)	1.5 oz (43 g) 94 oz (86 m)	1.7 oz (48 g) 105 yd (96 m)

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
dc inc = double crochet increase (2 dc in the same st)
dc dec = double crochet decrease

Notes:
Pattern is written using US terms.

The hexagon and square are worked in the round. All the other shapes are worked flat, so turn at the end of each row.

For the shapes worked flat, you can work a sl st border along the edges before fastening off to make it neater for joining later. Make 2 sl sts for each dc to keep it even.

Instructions:
Hexagon (make 1):
Rnd 1: With yellow, magic ring, ch 2, 12 dc in magic ring, join with sl st. (12 sts)
Rnd 2: ch 2, [(dc, tr, dc) in next st, dc] 6 times, join with sl st. (24 sts
Rnd 3: ch 2, dc, [(dc, tr, dc) in next tr st, 3 dc] 5 times, (dc, tr, dc) in next tr st, 2 dc, join with sl st. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: ch 2, 2 dc, [(dc, tr, dc) in next tr st, 5 dc] 5 times, (dc, tr, dc) in next tr st, 3 dc, join with sl st. (48 sts)
Next rnds: ch 2, work a (dc, tr, dc) in each tr and a dc in each dc.
Continue until you have 6 rnds. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Increase 12 sts each rnd. St count = 12 × rnd #

Square (make 12):
Rnd 1: With orange, magic ring, ch 2, [3 dc, tr] 4 times in magic ring, join with sl st. (16 sts)
Rnd 2: ch 2, [3 dc, (2 dc, tr, 2 dc) in the next tr st] 4 times, join with sl st. (32 sts)
Rnd 3: ch 2, 5 dc, [(2 dc, tr, 2 dc) in next tr st, 7 dc] 3 times, (2 dc, tr, 2 dc) in next tr st, 2 dc. (48 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Narrow rhombus (make 24):
Row 1: With beige, ch 3, 1 dc in 3rd st from hook, turn. (1 st)
Row 2: ch 2, dc inc, turn. (2 sts)
Row 3: ch 2, dc, dc inc, turn. (3 sts)
Row 4: ch 2, 2 dc, dc inc, turn. (4 sts)
Next rows: ch 2, work a dc in each dc and a dc inc in the last st, turn.
Continue until you have 6 rows.
Increase 1 st each row. St count = row #
Dec row 1: ch 2, dc to last 2 sts, dc dec, turn. (5 sts)
Next rows: ch 2, work a dc in each dc and a dc dec in the last st, turn.
Continue until you have 11 rows in all, turn. (1 st)
Last row: ch 2, dc. (1 st)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Decrease 2 sts each row. St count = total rows – dec row #

Rhombus (make 6):
Row 1: With blue, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd st from hook, turn. (2 sts)
Row 2: ch 2, dc inc 2 times, turn. (4 sts)
Row 3: ch 2, dc inc, 2 dc, dc inc, turn. (6 sts)
Next rows: ch 2, work a dc inc in the first and last sts and a dc in each dc, turn.
Continue until you have 6 rows.
Increase 2 sts each row. St count = 2 × row #
Dec row 1: ch 2, dc dec, dc to last 2 sts, dc dec, turn. (10 sts)
Next rows: ch 2, work a dc dec in the first and last sts and a dc in each dc, turn.
Continue until you have 11 rows in all, turn. (2 sts)
Last row: ch 2, dc dec. (1 st)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Decrease 2 sts each row. St count = 12 – (2 × dec row #)

Triangle (make 12):
Row 1: With green, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd st from hook, turn. (2 sts)
Row 2: ch 2, dc inc 2 times, turn. (4 sts)
Row 3: ch 2, dc inc, 2 dc, dc inc, turn. (6 sts)
Next rows: ch 2, work a dc inc in the first and last sts and a dc in each dc, turn.
Continue until you have 6 rows. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Increase 2 sts each row. St count = 2 × row #

Trapezoid (make 6):
Row 1: With red, magic ring, ch 2, 7 dc in magic ring, turn. (7 sts)
Row 2: ch 2, dc inc, [dc, (dc, tr, dc) in next st] 2 times, dc, dc inc, turn. (13 sts)
Row 3: ch 2, dc inc, [3 dc, (dc, tr, dc) in next st] 2 times, 3 dc, dc inc, turn. (19 sts)
Next rows: ch 2, work a dc inc in the first and last sts, a (dc, tr, dc) in each tr, and a dc in each dc, turn.
Continue until you have 6 rows. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Increase 6 sts each row. St count = 1 + (6 × row #)

Finish: Block pieces. Arrange shapes in above pattern. Join pieces together using the flat crochet join or any join of your choice. Weave in ends.

You may make and sell products from my pattern but please credit me and/or link back to my post and use your own photos.

Have fun with it!

Pattern Block Shapes

I’ve had this idea to crochet pattern blocks since last spring. I bought the yarn back in May of last year, but I had a hard time getting started on it. Part of the issue is me wanting everything to be perfect. I wanted to knit all the shapes in the round, but some of the shapes were tricky. There was also the issue of figuring out how to get all the edges to be the same length. I couldn’t figure it out on paper, so I put it off.

I finally started yesterday and it turned out to be much easier than I expected. I started with the hexagon, figuring it’d be similar to making a circle but I’d put all the increases in the same place on purpose. I used treble stitches in the corners and worked increases in the same stitch. It worked out nicely. I tried the square next since I knew how to make a granny square. I just needed to replace the chain stitches with double crochet stitches so there wouldn’t be gaps. I used treble stitches again in the corners and it worked well. Two down, four to go!

The other shapes were the ones that stumped me though. I wanted to make them in the round, but I decided they may be easier worked flat. Once I accepted that, it turns out they’re easy to make. A trapezoid is half a hexagon. It took me a few tries to get the shape just right. I ended up adding a stitch to make it an odd number. At first, I tried treble crochet stitches on the ends, but it ended up being too long, so I redid it with double crochet stitches.

Next, a triangle is a third of a trapezoid. I thought about using treble crochet stitches for the edge stitches, but in the end, I stuck with double crochet and it worked out nicely. A rhombus is two triangles, so I made another triangle and then I worked the same number of rows with decreases. I had trouble figuring out the decrease rows, but when the last row was decreased to one stitch, everything fell into place.

The narrow rhombus was the final piece. Initially, I thought about working it lengthwise, but I couldn’t figure out how to work the increases. After a break, I realized that that the narrow rhombus is basically half of the other rhombus. I could work it in a similar way, but with increases on just one side. Same for the decreases, but on the opposite edge. And it worked!

UPDATE: About that narrow rhombus. I wasn’t happy with it, so I played around some more. Ended up alternating the edge that the increases and decreases were. They look more symmetrical now.

While working these shapes, I started thinking about how I could make them bigger. If I add a round to the square, I would have to add two rounds to the hexagon in order to keep the edges the same length. That means adding two rows to the trapezoid and the triangle and four rows to the rhombuses. I created an Excel sheet to keep track of all the sizes. And then, I ended up calculating how much yarn each size would use. This took a while. I made a sample piece to figure out how much yarn each stitch uses (both double and treble), then I played around with the numbers to figure out how many stitches each size would have (broken down to double and treble). I haven’t done this much math in a long time, but I think I finally got it now. I’ll work some sample shapes and double check them by weighing them.

Stay tuned for the pattern!

Chair Socks Crochet Pattern

Make some chair socks to protect your floor and keep your chair feet warm. Download the PDF from my Ravelry store here.

Skill Level:
Easy

Materials:
• E-4 (3.5 mm) hook
• DK weight yarn: about 0.56 oz (16 g) 35 yd (32 m) for a set of 4

Gauge:
22 sc x 24 rows to 4” (10 cm)
* Gauge is not critical but a different gauge will affect the finished size.

Size:
About 1.2” (3 cm) diameter, 1.6” (4 cm) tall, fits chair legs about 3.75” (9.5 cm) in circumference

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sc inc = single crochet increase (2 sc in the same st)
BLO = back loop only

Notes:
Pattern is written using US terms.

Size can be adjusted by adding more rounds at the base or more rounds of the side.

Base:
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in magic ring, join to first sc with sl st. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: ch 1, [sc inc] 6 times, join with sl st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: ch 1, [sc inc, sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (18 sts)

If you need a larger base, add a round or two as follows:
Rnd 4: ch 1, [sc inc, 2 sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: ch 1, [sc inc, 3 sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (30 sts)

Side:
Rnd 4: ch 1, sc BLO all around, join with sl st. (18 sts)
Rnds 5-12: ch 1, sc all around, join with sl st. (18 sts)

Finish: Fasten off and weave in ends.

You may make and sell products from my pattern but please credit me and/or link back to my post and use your own photos.

Have fun with it!

Water Bottle Sleeve Crochet Pattern

So I have this problem with water bottles. I always find a way to drop them and then they get dented. I decided to make this sleeve with a strap to solve this problem. Hopefully, the strap helps to prevent me from dropping it as much. And when it does drop, it’s a bit more protected. But if it does end up with dents, at least they are somewhat hidden. Download the PDF from my Ravelry store here.

Skill Level:
Easy

Materials:
• E-4 (3.5 mm) hook
• Light worsted weight yarn
• 2 buttons (15 mm)

Gauge:
19 sc x 22 rows to 4” (10 cm)
* Gauge is not critical but a different gauge will affect the finished size.

Size:
About 10” (25 cm) circumference, 5.5” (14 cm) tall, 7.5” (19 cm) strap (shown on Fellow Carter Move Mug, 12 oz)

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
sk = skip
sc = single crochet
sc inc = single crochet increase (2 sc in the same st)
dc = double crochet
ch-sp = chain space

Notes:
Pattern is written using US terms.

Size can be adjusted by adding more rounds at the base or more rounds of the diamond mesh body. The diamond mesh pattern is worked over a multiple of 4 sts so you may need to add 2 sts to the base. The length of the strap can also be modified by changing the number of rows. You can even make several straps and change them out.

Base:
Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in magic ring, join to first sc with sl st. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: ch 1, [sc inc] 6 times, join with sl st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: ch 1, [sc inc, sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: ch 1, [sc inc, 2 sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: ch 1, [sc inc, 3 sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: ch 1, [sc inc, 4 sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: ch 1, [sc inc, 5 sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: ch 1, [sc inc, 6 sc] 6 times, join with sl st. (48 sts)
Rnds 9-12: ch 1, 48 sc, join with sl st. (48 sts)

Body:
The body is worked using Diamond Mesh in the round by Magic Owl Studios.
Rnd 13: ch 1, sc, [ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc] 11 times, ch 2, dc in first sc to join. (12 ch-sp loops)
Rnds 14-20: ch 1, sc in dc from previous rnd, [ch 5, sc in ch-sp from previous rnd] 11 times, ch 2, dc in first sc to join. (12 ch-sp loops)

Top:
Rnd 21: ch 1, sc in first dc, [ch 3, sc in ch-sp] 11 times, ch 3, join with sl st. (48 sts)
Rnd 22-23: ch 1, 48 sc, join with sl st. (48 sts)
Fasten off.

Strap:
Row 1: ch 5, sk first st, 4 sc, turn. (4 sts)
Row 2: ch 1, 4 sc, turn. (4 sts)
Row 3: ch 1, sc, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in last st, turn. (4 sts)
Rows 4-37: repeat row 2. (4 sts)
Row: 38: repeat row 3. (4 sts)
Rows 39-40: repeat row 2. (4 sts)
Fasten off.

Finish: Weave in ends. Sew two buttons on opposite sides of the top. Button the strap on and enjoy!

You may make and sell products from my pattern but please credit me and/or link back to my post and use your own photos.

Have fun with it!

Lion Coaster Crochet Pattern

I made this lion coaster years ago, finally wrote down the pattern about three years ago, and uploaded it onto Ravelry two years ago. It’s cute and easy, so I figured this one is a good place to start. Download the PDF from my Ravelry store here.

Skill Level:
Easy

Materials:
• J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook
• Worsted weight yarn in yellow, orange, brown, and black

Gauge:
12 dc x 7 rows to 4” (10 cm)
* Gauge is not critical but a different gauge will affect the finished size.

Size:
About 4” (10 cm) in diameter

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sc inc = single crochet increase (2 sc in the same st)
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
dc inc = double crochet increase (2 dc in the same st)

Notes:
Pattern is written using US terms.

Instructions:
Head:
Rnd 1: With yellow yarn, magic ring, ch 2, 12 dc in magic ring, join to first dc with sl st, ch 2. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: [dc inc] 12 times, join with sl st, ch 2. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: [dc, dc inc] 12 times, join with sl st, ch 1 with orange yarn. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: [2 sc, sc inc] 12 times, join with sl st, ch 1. (48 sc)
Rnd 5: [sc, (hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st, sc] 12 times, join with sl st. (72 sts)
Fasten off.

Ears (make 2):
With yellow yarn, ch 4, hdc in second st from hook, dc, (hdc and sl st) in last st. Fasten off.

Finish: Sew ears to head, embroider eyes in black and nose/mouth in brown, weave in ends.

You may make and sell products from my pattern but please credit me and/or link back to my post and use your own photos.

Have fun with it!