Milk Tea Hat Knitting Pattern

Milk Tea Hat is a simple beanie with some easy colorwork. The brim is made of a modified broken rib stitch using slip stitches to add some color and the main body includes garter ridges in a contrasting color. You can purchase an inexpensive PDF from my Ravelry store here, which contains instructions for eight sizes from preemie to adult. The instructions for the preemie size are provided here for free.

Skill Level:
Easy

Materials:
• US 4 (3.5 mm) DPNs and/or circular needles
• Sport yarn in 4 colors (see chart on page 2 for amounts)
• 8 stitch markers

Gauge:
24 sts x 32 rows to 4” (10 cm) in stockinette after blocking
* Be sure to check your gauge

Size:
Hat circumference for preemie size: 10” (25 cm)
Other sizes available on the PDF are: Newborn: 12” (30 cm); 3-6 Months: 14” (36 cm); 6-12 Months: 16” (41 cm); Toddler: 18” (46 cm); Child: 20” (51 cm); Teen: 21.3” (53 cm); Adult: 22.7” (58 cm)
* Worn with 1-2” (3-5 cm) of negative ease

Size Chart:
See below for the finished size of the hat compared to head size.

Age	Head Circumference	Hat Circumference	Hat Length
Preemie	11-12” (28-30 cm)	10” (25 cm)	4” (10 cm)
Newborn	13-15” (33-38 cm)	12” (30 cm)	5” (13 cm)
3-6 Months	15-17” (38-43 cm)	14” (36 cm)	5.5” (14 cm)
6-12 Months	16-19” (41-48 cm)	16” (41 cm)	6.5” (17 cm)
Toddler	18-20” (46-50 cm)	18” (46 cm)	7” (18 cm)
Child	19-21” (48-53 cm)	20” (51 cm)	7.5” (19 cm)
Teen	21-22” (53-56 cm)	21.3” (54 cm)	8” (20 cm)
Adult	23-24” (58-61 cm)	22.7” (58 cm)	8.5” (22 cm)

Yarn Amounts:
See below for approximate yardage of each color needed.

Size	MC1	CC1	MC2	CC2
Preemie	11 yd (10 m)	< 5 yd (5 m)	34 yd (31 m)	7 yd (6 m)
Newborn	13 yd (12 m)	< 5 yd (5 m)	46 yd (42 m)	11 yd (10 m)
3-6 Months	15 yd (14 m)	< 5 yd (5 m)	59 yd (54 m)	16 yd (14 m)
6-12 Months	17 yd (16 m)	5 yd (5 m)	74 yd (68 m)	22 yd (20 m)
Toddler	19 yd (17 m)	6 yd (5 m)	90 yd (82 m)	28 yd (26 m)
Child	22 yd (20 m)	7 yd (6 m)	100 yd (91 m)	32 yd (29 m)
Teen	23 yd (21 m)	8 yd (7 m)	115 yd (105 m)	38 yd (35 m)
Adult	25 yd (23 m)	8 yd (7 m)	131 yd (120 m)	46 yd (42 m)

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sl1p = slip 1 purlwise
wyib = with yarn in back
k2tog = knit 2 together
st(s) = stitch(es)
rep = repeat
rnd = round
CO = cast on
BO = bind off
MC = main color
CC = contrasting color

Notes:
When working with two colors, be sure to twist the strands of yarn when changing colors.

The ribbing for the brim is not very stretchy. You can change to smaller needle if you want a stretchier brim.

Instructions:
Brim:
With MC1, CO 60 sts. Join in the rnd and place marker.
If the CO and rnd 1 color change is tricky, you can CO an extra st and then join the first and last sts with k2tog in MC1. Count it as the first sl1p in rnd 1.
Rnd 1: With CC1, *sl1p wyib, k1, rep from * to end.
Rnd 2: With MC1, *k1, p1, rep from * to end.
Rnd 3: With MC1, k all.
Rep rnds 1-3 for a total of 4 times and then rnds 1-2 once more.

Body:
Change to MC2, and work in stockinette (k all) for 6 rnds.
Rnd 7: Change to CC2, k all.
Rnd 8: With CC2, p all.
Rnd 9: Change to MC2, k all.
Rnd 10: With MC2, k all.
Rep rnds 7-10 for a total of 3 times.

Crown:
Continue with only MC2.
Setup Rnd: k all, placing a marker every 7 sts. At the same time, work the setup row as follows: *k13, k2tog, rep from * to end. 56 sts
Rnd 1: *k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, rep from * to end.
Rnd 2: k all.
Rep rnds 1-2 for a total of 4 times.
Rep only rnd 1 2 more times.

Finish:
Cut yarn, draw tail through remaining 8 sts. Weave in ends and block.

You may make and sell products from my pattern but please credit me and/or link back to my post and use your own photos.

Have fun with it!

Rainbow Swirl

I made a hat years ago following this pattern. I recently had the idea to make another one but with the stripes in different colors.

I didn’t have worsted weight yarn, so I ended up working with two strands of yarn. This gave me a chance to use even more colors! I worked it out to 7 gray/white stripes and 7 stripes in rainbow colors. I also had to borrow a pair of 5mm needles since I don’t usually work with this weight of yarn.

I modified the pattern a bit by changing the first row of each gray/white stripe to knit instead of purl. This way, the stripe transition looks smoother. I also did a provisional cast on, so that I could graft it together at the end.

For all the color stripes, I left an extra long tail. The tails were on the side that would become the top of the hat. After I grafted the beginning row to the last row and gathered the top, I used all those tails to knit a ball to replace the pompom.

I ended up making the brim a few rows shorter than the pattern. It seemed like a good length before binding off.

My next project is going to be something with fingering yarn. I love how this hat turned out, but it reminded me that I really prefer working with thinner yarn.

Milk Tea and Test Knits

About two weeks ago, I started knitting a baby cardigan for a friend. She had requested neutral colors, so I was looking at some beige and brown yarn. I was also drinking a milk tea at the time, and ended up picking colors that looked very much like my drink.

I used this pattern for the sweater, which I have used before and liked a lot. I changed colors for those garter ridges and for the cuffs and bands. I ended up choosing brown for the bands, beige for the body, and a caramel color for the garter ridges. I also modified the ribbing to add some black peeking through so they would look like boba balls.

I loved how it turned out. While working on this, I also thought of making a matching hat since I would have extra yarn. Using the same colors and the same stitches, I came up with this.

The crown decreases took a lot of research and a bit of frogging, but I think it worked out fine. I don’t have access to a head in this size, so we will have to wait and see if it will fit. I ended up calculating the math for several sizes, so now I’m looking for test knitters. Check my yarnpond for details.

Faking Two WIPs

A while back, I talked about how I was trying to knit two sweaters at the same time and I had trouble staying focused on them. As a result, I decided to focus on one thing at a time. But the problem here is that sometimes I get a bit bored and want to change it up a bit. Occasionally, I do a quick crochet to take a break, but I don’t enjoy crochet as much as knitting and sometimes, I just want to knit something different. I figured out a way to do this.

This week, I started with the body of this cardigan. It’s knit flat, so I was alternating rows of knits with purls. I got tired of purling, so I started on the sleeves (two at a time, of course). The sleeves are worked in the round, so it’s all knit stitches. It was pretty mindless for a while, but then I got to the increases. When I wanted a break from counting rows for increases, I went back to the body.

So far, it’s working out well! I get to change up what I’m working on (somewhat) without losing my focus by working too many projects.

How to Knit a Ball

I was knitting a baby hat that called for two pompoms, but I didn’t want to make pompoms. I really don’t like making them and it didn’t seem safe to put them in an item for a baby, so I started thinking about an alternative. I decided to knit stuffed balls instead. They still look like pompoms, but hopefully they won’t fall apart as easily. Here’s how I made them.

Skill Level:
Easy

Materials:
• Some scrap yarn. Any yarn will work, but I recommend needles a few sizes smaller so that the stuffing doesn’t show.
• A set of DPNs or cable needles
• A bit of fiber fill

Gauge:
Any gauge

Size:
Easily adjustable

Abbreviations:
k = knit
kfb = knit 1 into front and back of a stitch
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
st(s) = stitch(es)
rep = repeat
rnd = round
CO = cast on
BO = bind off

Notes:
• Pattern is worked in the round on DPNs (or cable needle).
• Stuff as you go. Start stuffing when you start decreasing and then finish at the last decrease round.

Instructions:
CO 3 sts. Slide sts to the other end of the needle (as you would for knitting an i-cord). 3 sts

Increase section:
Rnd 1: [kfb] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [kfb] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 3: k all.
Rnd 4: [k1, kfb] 6 times. 18 sts
Even rnds: k all.
Odd rnds: work 6 kfb spread out evenly.

Middle section:
All rnds: k all.
To determine how many rounds to knit here, generally the same number of rounds as the increase section seem to work out well.

Decrease section:
Rnd 1: work 6 k2tog spread out evenly. Start stuffing.
Rnd 2: k all.
Repeat these two rounds until 6 sts remain. Finish stuffing.
Next rnd: [k2tog] 3 times. 3 sts

Finish: Cut yarn, draw tail through the three loops. Weave in ends or use ends to attach the ball.

French Macaroon and Tiny Tot

I just finished the French Macaroon sweater by The Noble Thread and Tiny Tot hat by Kristen Rettig to match.

Both patterns were knit flat in garter stitch and seamed at the end. I loved how simple they both were. There were no increases or decreases and it was so easy to just work until a certain length.

I really liked the way the pattern was written for the sweater. The instructions were in a chart, with different sizes in their own column. It made it easier to keep track of the sizes. The back of the sweater was a bit confusing with the button, but I checked some others’ project pictures and it was easy to figure out.

The pattern for the hat had options for knitting flat or in the round. I went with flat because I didn’t want to deal with purling this time. For the pompoms, I knitted two balls instead since I always worry about pompoms falling apart.

Can’t wait to give them to the recipient in the summer!

Good Old Raglan

I started working on Good Old Raglan by Twisted Knitwear a while back. It started off just as a side thing for a few weeks, but it finally got my full attention last week. I just finished it and wanted to share about it.

I really liked the way the neck and shoulders were constructed. It looked so satisfying laid out like this. There were some short rows for the back part and then increases every other row for the shoulders.

The body went by so quickly. I like working with stripes (and just colorwork general). I think most of the things I’ve knitted have some kind of colorwork.

For the sleeves, I decided to work them both at the same time. I started making socks recently and decided to make them two at a time. I liked not getting second sock syndrome, so I figured it could work for sleeves as well. It did work, but with four balls of yarn, I had to spend some extra time untangling.

And here’s the finished product! Can’t wait to give it to the recipient!

August Baby Blanket Knitting Pattern

August Baby Blanket is garter stitch blanket with bold stripes in fun colors. A great project for a beginner looking to start working with colors. You can purchase an inexpensive PDF from my Ravelry store here.

I used 3 colors of a cotton and acrylic blend DK yarn. Each stripe used about 1.4 oz (40 g) 87 yd (80 m) with the first and last stripes using about 10% more for the cast on and bind off. Any kind of yarn would work with this pattern, but note that a different gauge will affect the final size.

Skill Level:
Basic

Materials:
• US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles
• DK yarn in 3 colors: about 4.6 oz (130 g) 284 yd (260 m) of colors 1 and 2; 3 oz (85 g) 186 yd (170 m) of color 3

Gauge:
18 sts x 36 rows to 4” (10 cm) in garter after blocking
* Gauge is not critical, but a different gauge will affect the finished size.

Size:
Completed size about 28” by 32” (71 cm by 81 cm)
Adjust the size by casting on a different number of stitches (multiple of 4 + 3) or working a different number of rows.

Abbreviations:
k = knit
sl1p = slip 1 purlwise
wyif = with yarn in front
st(s) = stitch(es)
rep = repeat
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
CO = cast on
BO = bind off

Notes:
Adjust the size by casting on a different number of stitches or working a different number of rows.

Instructions:
With color 1, CO 126 sts.
Row 1 (RS): k all.
Row 2 (WS): sl1p wyif, k124, sl1p wyif.
Rep rows 1 and 2 for a total of 18 times. You will have 18 garter ridges on the RS.

Change to color 2 and rep rows 1 and 2 18 times.

Change to color 3 and rep rows 1 and 2 18 times.

Change to color 2 and rep rows 1 and 2 18 times.

Change to color 1 and rep rows 1 and 2 18 times.

Change to color 3 and rep rows 1 and 2 18 times.

Change to color 1 and rep rows 1 and 2 18 times.

Change to color 2 and rep rows 1 and 2 18 times.

BO and weave in ends. Block if desired.

You may make and sell products from my pattern but please credit me and/or link back to my post and use your own photos.

Have fun with it!

My Favorite Socks

I finished my second pair of socks! It’s definitely easier the second time around. I used a different pattern this time, My Favorite Socks by Voolenvine Yarns, but it was very similar. I think I feel confident enough to knit socks without a pattern now too! Maybe I’ll try some toe-up socks or a different heel next time.

Finished First Pair of Socks

Just wanted to make a quick update to my last post: I’ve finished my first pair of socks! And they fit comfortably too. Looking forward to making another pair!